Scarab Waste Water Australia

SCARAB Waste Water - A How to Guide

After many requests we have put together a short Step by Step stage on how to manufacture a Scarab Waste Water System. This should clear-up a few misconceptions about the Scarab System.

This can really be done on a nicol and dime budget.

This will teach you step by step how to build a waste water treatment plant for yourself. You will be able to reuse the water in your garden instead of wasting it.

Preparation

You will need to build another compartment onto your existing septic tank.

Diagram 1.0

You will then need to install a small submersible pump into this compartment with a 50 mm pipe running to the new bio tower you are going to build. You will need to put in a concrete base as shown below.

Diagram 1.1

You will need a plastic 2,500 litre JoJo tank or similar. Run the pipe from the submersible pump into the plastic tank as shown. Drill 2 holes into the plastic tank and fit with 50 mm threaded tank connectors. Join both the incoming 50 mm pipe and the return 50 mm pipe to these connectors with the use of a 50 mm PVC glue female to iron type connector. On the inside of the tank, do the same and then connect to the balancing box that you are going to make.

The Balancing Box.

The balancing box is really quite simple to make. Get hold of some HDPE sheeting around 6 mm thick. Firstly cut out an oval around 450 mm long and 300 mm wide. Cut out 3 holes with a hole saw that will allow another 3 tank connectors to go through.

Diagram 2.0

Cut out a strip of the 6mm HDPE sheeting about 150 mm wide and poly weld in a vertical position to form a "wall" around the outer edge of the oval.

Diagram 2.1

Insert the 3 x 50 mm tank connectors into the 3 holes with the nut to the bottom and fasten into place, weld 2 pieces of 25 mm HDPE pipe, the height of the wall of the balancing box onto both far ends of the box as shown. Drill 2 holes into the roof of the JoJo tank big enough to take a 15mm PVC pipe and at the same width apart. You will need to make sure that once the balancing box is inside the tank, it will hang level about 100 mm below the roof of the tank using the following method. Glue a 15 mm PVC end cap onto a 400 mm piece of 15 mm PVC water pipe. Insert this through the bottom of the 25mm poly pipes on either side of the balancing box, and push up through the 2 holes made in the roof of the JoJo tank. When it is level, glue 2 more end caps onto the top section of 15mm PVC piping sticking out of the top of the tank, making sure the box is level as shown in the drawing below. Use 50 mm sockets to adjust the height of the water inside the balancing box up or down, the idea is to have water coming in on one line, This line should have a shut off valve to reduce the flow of water coming in, or if you want to do a NICOL and dime job, you can trim the plastic impeller of the pump. The other line should return to the new compartment that you put in, and the third line should go to the bottom of the tank with a t-piece at the bottom to allow water into the bio tower. This process will make sure that the bio tower gets a steady flow of water.

Diagram 2.2

The Aeration Process.

This process has a dual action, namely to introduce air into the system and sweep the sludge off the bottom. You will need to build a frame that you can attach onto the side of the tank. It is advisable to do this in stainless steel square tubing, with round tubing protruding through the top of the tank to hold it in place. The alternative is to weld 10 mm HDPE sheeting onto the side of the tank. This will house the transfer pump. You will also need a venturi. These can be obtained online from China, the site is http://www.banggood.com/search/fertilizer-mixer.html They call them fertilizer mixers. The transfer pump that you use could be a Ebara CMA 100 m which has a 1 inch inlet and outlet. The piping should be in 1 inch PVC.

Diagram 3.0

The above shows the inlet to the Ebara pump, the end of the 1 inch PVC Pipe should be capped and 10 slits cut into both sides of the bottom 200 mm part of the pipe on either side, using a thin steel cutting angle grinder blade. This will stop the pumps impellar from blocking up.

Diagram 3.1

The Return.

The return pipe should also be in 1 inch PVC with the venturi on the inside of the tank. You can then use a standard piece of 15mm hose pipe to connect from the venturi through a hole to the outside of the tank near the top. The end of the hose pipe will need to be protected from insect etc. entering, and if you want to do a nicol and dime job, simply screw a round electrical junction box on the outside of the tank with a hole leading to it through the tank, and place a pot scourer inside the box then lead the hose pipe from the venturi through this hole and into the pot scourer area. After the venturi, you will need adapt to a 15mm PVC pipe which will go down to not less than 100mm from the floor of the tank. The pipe will need to be bent at the bottom at a 45 degree angle and then cut off. This bend will be positioned at a 2 o Clock position at the bottom of the tank, so that it causes the water to circulate as well as lifting the sludge off the bottom and aerating at the same time

Diagram 4.0

The easiest way to bend this pipe is to heat it up and the bend it using an electrical spring.

The Media.

The media is the next step, this is put in as a place for the bacteria to grow on. The media used is made of HDPE, in a process called plastic injection moulding. This can be obtained over the internet at http://www.qmes.nl/products/biofill/ or many other places such as India and China. You will need to fill the tank with 2 thirds media. You could also make you own media by acquiring a sample and getting a mould made. Contact me if you need a sample and I will supply this for the cost of postage.

Disinfection.

You will notice that I left a large piece on the side of the concrete slab, this is for the disinfection tank. There are some NICOL and dime person's that try and convince people to put in Ozone, however it does not work to the required standards and generally people tend to shy away from this as it is expensive. There is nothing worse than being duped into getting this technology, and then finding out that the person who sold it to you knows nothing about it. This could leave your family and pets at risk of catching disease. If you have been sold one of these ozone systems, I would suggest that you get your water tested for Thermo-tolerant Coliforms and you should get a reading of less than 10. If you do not, you have been duped and should demand your money back. Contact me if you have any queries. I prefer the use of chlorine, it is much safer and far cheaper. You will need a 1000 litre tank and a floating chlorine basket. Connect the outlet of the Bio Tower in 50 mm PVC pipe to the 1000 litre JoJo tank and place the chlorine basket in this.

Pump Out

For the pump out you will need a 500 litre tank with a submersible pump and a float switch. The chlorine tank will connect to this. On the outlet you can then connect your hose pipe and sprinkler.

Start Up

Fill the tanks with water, don't forget to prime the Ebara pumps with water. Failure to do this will result in them burning out. Switch on the system and enjoy!

Diagram 5.0

Don't be fooled into a Nicol and Dime System, start constructing your own.
Disclaimer - The Author does not accept any liability what so ever for the workings of the system, this article is for public interest only.

I hope this answers a few questions.

****In our next addition we will be dealing with the numerous accusations and the Illegal and Fraudulent Activities of Stephen Joel Nicol who has been using our Trademark, ABN (74 169 204 611) and ACN (169 204 611) numbers to dupe the public. Buyer Please Beware!!

This is Stephen Joel Nicol

Stephen Joel Nicol

FOR VERIFICATION PLEASE SEE OUR CERTIFICATE OF REGISTRATION BELOW.
We will also be following up with all pit-falls of "certain" Waste Water Systems in the interest of public knowledge.

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